Tranquilo

Tranquilo is one of the most common words I hear here. It seems to be the cultural mantra. It means quiet, calm, peaceful. And it seems to be said for just about everything - 'how did the kids behave?' 'what is this neighborhood like?' 'how is your day?' It can be used when things aren't tranquilo but they aspire to be. But for the most part people are very tranquilo here. There is a noticeable lack of aggression - people live and let live. I notice when we are driving in the motocarros, there isn't any yelling (like in NY) or constant horn honking (like in Athens). I think it is something about the tranquilo philosophy and the people's temperament. I also think being right there in someone's face in the open air instead of the fortress of your hummer makes confrontation less insulated.

The woman that works in our home, Edith (pronounced eh-DEET) is definitely tranquilo. She goes about her day working constantly but never in a rush or panic. She seems to have simple needs and not complicate things with too much analysis. When we asked her what was the difference between us and the average Peruvian family - I was so looking forward to the answer. Figuring I'd get this major insight into what makes the whole country tick. Knowing I'd get a realization about some kind of 'Ugly American' traits we have. Wondering what analysis she has done on us just as I have been analyzing her.... Well, I was so let down when she said 'The difference is your family doesn't eat very much'. Obviously this says lots of things - first of all, we still aren't accustomed to the big meal of the day being a 2 o'clock lunch during the heat. Secondly, the food is still different and we are adjusting. Thirdly, she is more interested in whether or not we like her cooking than providing some silly comparative analysis.

But it does match with the other Peruvians I have encountered thus far. There is no real need to complain too much or critique others on what they are doing. It's a nice motto and I'm as laid back as the next person. But I do miss seeing some highs and lows or emotion and people that are willing to step outside of the comfort zone a little. There is a pretty monotone way of dressing, behaving, and working the permeates the culture. It seems a little uninspired - including the cooking. (I should qualify this and say 'in Pucallpa'. I know Lima has a lot more variety of food options available.) I am open to the idea that creativity is a luxury - and if you are just concentrating on getting by - maybe you don't have the time or inclination to come up with the next great style or dish. Creativity could just be for the privileged. Or maybe they are doing all the right things by using only local resources and using them in the best way. I don't know - I realize I have only been here a month and I am just talking about my impressions up until this point. I am completely open for those to change a little or a lot by the end of 5.

As for our daily grind - We had a new porch roof installed this week which was 4 long, hot days of banging on top of all the other stress of slow internet, trying to work, and picking up the kids and getting them to nap and bond with the babysitter in the afternoons. I have done a lot of work in the evenings and weekends to make up for any lost time. It is exhausting but we are making it work so far. David has been very busy making contacts, getting his Fulbright project in full swing, and getting his schedule down at the University for the class he'll be co-teaching. Felix has made quite a turn around at school becoming a favorite now of the security guards that always make a point of greeting him.

We are continuing on our routine of hitting a new pool each week. Ruby is also enjoying a lap swimming class (pictured above). I went to watch her one day and was so unbelievably jealous that I signed up for a class myself with the same instructor. So basically one of us is swimming at this pool 6 days a week. I don't understand everything he is saying but have the basic words down - mariposa, espalda, pecho, libre! (butterfly, backstroke, breastroke, freestyle) I know how to swim well so there is not a lot of instruction needed - it's more just a way to use the pool. This could be the thing that saves me!! It feels pretty hot, sticky and dusty a lot of the time combined with the noise of the streets, construction, motocarros, and my own children. This solitude and peace in the pool is about as heaven sent as you can get. Tranquilo.